The perfect slice of pizza still eludes me. I got very close on a recent trip to New York when I dined at Co., a small pizza joint owned by a former bread baker. The topping combos border on genius – saucy stracciatella cheese with arugula and crushed tomatoes or a white cheese-béchamel-bacon combo straight out of my dreams. But at Co., I did struggle with the crust, which has a chewy, bread-like texture. Ending the evening with fear of lock-jaw isn’t exactly what I had in mind.

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